Galway: Across the Bay

Galway's centrality between many famous points of interest within Ireland lends the city a convenience that is unparalleled by other harbor cities, such as Dublin. From the promenade at Salthill, the beach of Galway City, one has only to look across the bay to see all three Aran Islands, the area of Blackhead, and the beginnings of the Cliffs of Moher. In fact, all of these attractions (and attractions like Conemarra, Kylemore Abbey and Cong) are within an hour and forty minutes from Galway City Center. Thus, hopping on a bus to visit Innis Oirr, the smallest Aran Island was a pretty easy and cheap decision to make! Not to mention it includes a lovely ferry cruise along the bottom of the famous Cliffs of Moher. Bright and early this morning I boarded a tour bus headed for Doolin, a tiny town where ferries to Inis Oirr and Inis Mann sail out from.

Inis Oirr:
This tiny island is the smallest of the three Aran Islands with a population of approximately 260 persons. There are a total of four towns within the island, which is only about 3km x 2km! Despite its remote locality as an island, and tiny population, there is an airport (really just a single landing strip and a hut), a doctor's office (a renovated house), three pubs, two schools (for the 35 children that live on the island) and representation for all of Ireland's history from 10,000 B.C. on wards. Wait... come again? Yes, yes you did read that correctly, there is history on Inis Oirr that dates back to 15,000 B.C.!

Bronze Age burial mound located outside town sports fields

This round burial mound was found underneath a sand dune, fully intact. After excavation the bodies inside were given to the National Museum in Dublin, however, the structure still remains on Inis Oirr today. If one walks around the mound and veers right, they will come upon the next amazing find that the island has to offer.

Teampall Chaomhán and supposed grave

Teampall Chaomhan, a church, is a topic of debate within Ireland. After its excavation (this amazing church was also buried underneath a sand dune), various forms of dating the structure have found inconclusive results as to its true age. The style of the church is characteristic of buildings seen as early as the 6th century, however, the mortar dates back to the 10th century. Despite the incongruence of age, the church remains a very holy and beloved site for the people of Inis Oirr. The name Chaomhán refers to the saint of the same name, whose supposed grave lies under the small hut behind the ruins of the church. It remains a common belief that those who spend the night sleeping on top of the grave will be cured of any and all illnesses. Another interesting belief about the site is in regards to the tiny window in the last wall on the right. It is believed that if one can fit through that window, it is a sign that they will be sent to heaven. Let's get another look at this window shall we:

So, how many of you think you can fit through? Any takers? 

It's an optical illusion, most of us were able to make it through

Now, continuing on our tour of Inis Oirr, we will walk from the church up a hill to visit the 16th Century Caisleán Uí Bhríain, a three story tower built to act as a look out. From the tower one finds some pretty amazing views of Inis Oirr, the Cliffs of Moher (which are only about 8 km away), Inis Mann (the middle Aran Island), and even the mountains of Connemara. However, for me, the most astonishing beauty came from the views of countryside of Inis Oirr, which showcases the small crop farming of yore beautifully. 

Small family farming plots demarcated with handmade stone walls

Of course, no tour of Inis Oirr would be complete without a look at Sandy, the island's resident dolphin! 

From Inis Oirr, I cruised back to Doolin, but before docking we took a quick look at the Cliffs of Moher! Let me tell you. The Cliffs are amazing, absolutely breathtaking from the top, but you ain't seen nothing till you've seen them from the bottom. Besides, from the bottom you can totally pretend you're in Harry Potter (the horcrux from the Half Blood Prince is located here!). 

And for those of you who are purists when it comes to the Cliffs of Moher experience

The cliffs are about 700 ft tall, not the tallest in Ireland, but the most famous. They are a protected sight as they are a no-fly zone. No fly zones prohibit the use of aircraft near the premises, this is to protect the many beautiful species of birds that live in and on the Cliffs (one species of which is the all too adorable Puffin!). Far off in the distance, to the right of my head in the bottom picture you can see a small tower. This tower was built by the O'Brian family in the 1800s, to aid tourists who wanted to get a safe and clear view of the bay and surrounding cliffs. Indeed, even in the Victorian era the Cliffs of Moher were a tourist destination. In fact, it was only in 2005 that the contemporary tourist center was built. Today the center exists within the hills leading up to the Cliffs, as to not interfere with the natural beauty of the area. From the Cliffs, if you were to stand facing towards the water you would see the Aran Islands, Connemara, Galway Bay and many an aquatic creature (dolphins, seals, and even basking sharks call these waters home). Standing the other direction one can see as far as the Killarny National Park! 

Yes, Ireland is a place of wonder, awe and hard knocks. The place best to recognize all of these things is probably Galway, although, I might be a bit biased. But either way, there is no shortage of amazing history and adventure to be had, here's looking forward to even more adventures in the future!