Galway: Beyond the City Walls

Galway, like many medieval cities, was at one point (and to a certain extent still is) a walled city. But the city's magic is not confined by these parameters. Galway, located in County Galway, has spread its magic to many outlying towns including Spiddal, Connemara and Cong. But before I begin with my planned readable tour of County Galway, let's back track to where I mentioned that Galway City is still somewhat walled in. What does that even mean? Galway began as nothing but a small fishing village many, many years ago. During a Anglo-Norman conquest in the 13th century the village was taken over and a wall was constructed around it. Amazingly, some of the original walls are still standing! In fact, the modern day Eyre Square Centre (mall) runs straight through it, using the original wall as a way to add heritage pride into the everyday shopping experience.

The original 13th century city wall (right hand side) runs through the middle of the city shopping mall

Now, as I stated, these walls do nothing to inhibit the County Galway charm from flowing throughout the diverse land it encompasses. One of the other beautiful towns within Co. Galway is the quaint town of Spiddal. Spiddal is about 12 miles outside of the city of Galway, and colloquially known as the gateway to Connemara. This is due in part to it's location as being the start of the the rugged and stark Connemara land, as well as its heavily Irish speaking population. This area is home to quintessential Irish traditions such as thatched roof cottages, artisan workshops and the Connemara Pony.

A traditional thatched roof, these roofs can last up to 14 years

However, Spiddal is also pock marked with ruins of horror, sorrow and famine. As you drive beyond the quaint town center you find yourself on a narrow country road. On either side of that road you see rock walls of varying size and shape. During the years before the famine families would have each owned property within one or more of these plots of land, separated out and delineated with the rock walls. Most farmers planted one crop of potatoes, because that's all they had room for, and because potatoes were hardy, reliable and sustaining. For the farmers, having a single good potato crop meant having food for their family for a whole year (a hearty dinner at that time was a potato, maybe a sliver of butter and water). However, this also meant that you, your best friend, your neighbor, your worst enemy and your parents all grew potatoes; so, if there was a blight, there was a very serious problem. During the famine, farmers who did not know the English language had three choices 1) learn English and find a job in the city 2) Emigrate on the "coffin ships" (called so due to their horrible conditions 3) Work as a Penny Wall builder. Penny walls were walls built during the famine for no other reason than to keep the farmers busy and fed (they worked all day in exchange for soup and bread). Penny walls, or dry walls, were built by fitting stones together high up in the mountains like a jig-saw puzzle. These walls are still standing today and they can been seen for miles around in the tall mountains of the Connemara region. Another interesting sight in the Spiddal and Connemara regions are the brand new wind turbines, which the Irish government had introduced into Ireland within the last two years (give or take). 

Farmers are paid about 1,600 euros per turbine by the Irish Government 

In contemporary Connemara one sees many farms; however, the land is such that farming crops is almost impossible. Instead, these farmers are usually farming livestock, such as sheep. The sheep are branded by spray painting colors or various colors onto their wool and set free. During the winter months farmers do not feed their sheep, allowing them to get all of their food by scavenging the land, eating whatever wild grasses and herbs they find appealing. This leads to a very aromatic and tender meat that Irish lamb and beef are renowned for. It also lends itself well to entertaining traffic jams of various farm animals laying in the streets without a care in the world. 

Black-face Sheep lounging on the pavement

Through the beautiful mountains and exiting Connemara, you find yourself in the town of Kylemore. Kylemore, once home to a wealthy English family is now known for Kylemore Abbey, a Benedictine Abbey for Nuns. This estate, which started as a mere hunting lodge, is now one of the most beautiful estates in all of Ireland, containing multiple walled Victorian gardens, fisheries and a sweets and jams making center, run by the twelve remaining Nuns. 

Kylemore Abbey and its gardens from afar

Nearby to Kylemore is the Killary Fjord. Killary Fjord, while famous for being the only fjord in Ireland, is also famous for its current-day mussel farming and also its role during the second world war as a place to bring war-damaged ships for safety and repair. 

Killary Fjord, the mussel farming pots can be seen on the right (they look like ripples)

Finally, before returning to Galway City, Co. Galway has one last stop that John Wayne and/or Maureen O'Hara fans cannot afford to miss. The town of Cong, home of Sean Thornton's ancestral roots and Mary Kate Danaher. But for those of you who haven't seen it, Cong is where the 1952 motion picture The Quiet Man was filmed. 

A statue in town commemorating John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara as their characters

So... even if cities aren't your thing, you don't have to leave Co. Galway to get a taste of the life, love, tragedy and Irish pride of Galway, Ireland.